R/C Tank Combat

Tank #T044

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The drive sprockets will be made out of smooth cast 305. Here is the master; it is made out of balsa because it’s cheap and easy to shape. It is 1” thick, with a 5” DIA (without teeth). The ID is roughly 3 ½”, the teeth are 3/8” wide by ¼” tall. The keyways keep it on the wooden hub.

The mould was made out of oomoo-30 silicon rubber. The sprocket is made out of Smooth-cast 305.
 

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Here is the three piece sprocket assembled. The hub was turned on my newly acquired lathe; the keyways were cut with a router mounted in a jig. I was originally going to make the sprockets with this jig, didn’t work out, it works great for keyways though.

December 2005: 5 months in and it’s starting to look real mean, there’s still a lot of work left, building two tanks at the same time is not as easy as I thought. I would say it would be done by now but it will be worth it when I roll two tanks out on the same day… I still need to buy the batteries and the radio, I also need to build the ridiculously out of scale tracks.
 

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The hardware shop finally got some springs after a full month of waiting for them! So the wheels are now on and the suspension works great, it can easily support the tank with me standing on it (I weigh around 110-120 lbs) and only drops about half an inch, but when a single wheel rolls over something it doesn’t lift the hull at all.

Close up of the wheels travelling over an un-even surface. The paint brushes are about 1 ¼” tall. The tracks are being built this month.
 

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These air vents feed the fans mounted directly under them with cool air, whilst keeping paint out. If they get hit from the rear or the outside the paint can’t get in, the only way for paint to get in is if they were hit from the top or inside (unlikely).

January 2006: Tracks; the inner cleats are made of ¼” hobby plywood, the outer cleats are made out of Masonite and the teeth are made out of oak. They are held together with screws and polyurethane Gorilla Glue. The glue is 100% waterproof. I followed the glues application directions and only used 2 fl.oz for 2 tracks.
 

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Drive sprocket with tracks. The reason the tracks are so wide is that I’m using the same tracks on my Ferdinand. I could either make the tracks on the Ferdinand narrower or the tracks on the StuG wider, I choose the wider option, makes it look beastie.

January 2006: The tracks are done and installed. They were easier to build then I remember. They only took three days and $60 worth of materials.
 

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