R/C Tank Combat

Tank #T035

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The triangular piece is to make sure the socket cap is placed in the right position. A slot is made in the PVC tube to accept the white sticky out thing on the pod to prevent it from rotating in the tube.

In the socket cap a bolt is placed to push down the ratchet wheel and thus enabling the spring inside the pod to unwind. This force feeds the paintballs through the hose to the marker. As long as I remember to connect the hose to the marker before placing the cap I'll be fine ...
 

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Late June 2005: The upper hull parts is designed to be taken off the lower part for maintenance. It is made of 5 mm plywood, glued together and is very light.

The gun mantlet looks great, but isn't very functional in terms of protecting the inside of the tank from getting paint all over. I overlooked this when I chose to build a StuG, but I'll find a way to make this work. The upper hull can be taken off the vehicle by tilting the back up a bit and moving it forward, over the barrel and muzzle brake. This is the reason I have to think of a way to close the space between the mantlet and the hull. The alternative would be to get rid of the mantlet and mount a sort of gear lever cover but I'd like to stick to the mantlet design.
 

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The belt tensioning system is modified. The single bolt system I constructed resulted in uneven tension of the belts, this is much better and allows firmer tensioning and thus better off road performance.

See Battle of the Bulge (WMV, 7Mb) to see the Stug III attack a Sherman.


July 2005: The interior of the StuG. Qloader on the right, marker in the front and on the left the air bottle. The upper hull is a bit higher compared to original StuG's but this was necessary to house the Qloader and air bottle.
 

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The upper hull is painted in panzer grey. Apart from painting the lower hull and adding some details it is now fully operational.

I changed the secondary belt pullies for larger ones, changin the ratio from 1:1 to 1:1.2. The total gear ratio is 1:9 now as advised. It is still fast enough but I thought a bit more torque would be good for a tank like this, that needs full tank traverse for proper aiming.
 

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The problem that occurred with the marker sticking out of the upper hull too far and thus leaving too much space for paint to enter the tank is also solved. The marker is now placed 5 cm (about 2 inches) backwards into the tank, and only the marker body sticks out, leaving little space between the marker and the upper hull structure. The new position of the marker also improved the balance point which will have a positive effect on elevation servo life. Because most of the weight is still on the barrel side of the marker a piece of bungee cord is attached between the marker back end and the hull floor to act as a servo saver. With the gun in perfect horizontal position the servo doesn't need to adjust all the time.

29 July 2005: Be afraid, be very afraid .....
 

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