R/C Tank Combat

Tank #T030


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And painted…

Here is where the transmission is mounted. The bearings I used are for 3/4” shafts and I’m using 5/8” shafts so each bearing required a bushing to reduce the bore to 5/8".

Work has finally begun on the r/c setup. The receiver and ni-cad battery are held on to a piece of aluminium angle with a two way zip-tie. The servos are mounted on custom brackets. They are mounted above each other to save space. The yellow straps are to hold my battery in place. Each one has a little ratchet so I can tighten them to secure the battery. I still need to install all of the micro switches.

General layout of my hull. On the right you can see where my relays will be mounted. My speed control will be mounted behind the motors.

February 2005: T30 just before it’s first ever field test. Everything is ready to go.

After several field tests I decided it was time for an upgrade. That included a completely new set of road wheels. These wheels are made out of ply, and will have a half inch bushing in them. The groove was cut with a Dremel.

Here are the wheels mounted. The ½” nuts on the shafts are actually shaft collars. They were made by boring the nut out to ½” then tapping a hole for a set screw. They seem to work fine.

The upgrade also included a completely new chassis. It may not be pretty but darn it’s strong. The wheels now ride on luxurious 1/2” shafts as opposed to the old 5/16” ones. A chassis like this one cost about $10 (Aussie) and takes about 1 day to fabricate.

I also gave it a nice new coat of paint. The hatches are to hide a lock under each one that keeps the top hull secured to the lower hull.

This shot was taken just after the second series of field tests. The upgrade was well worth the effort. If you look closely you can see that I’ve added heat sinks to my motor mounts. They were made with pieces of aluminium “U” channel. They actually keep the motors noticeably cooler. I have also sealed the hull with an adhesive rubber.

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