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Click Photo For Enlargement (152 Kb)
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The rear of the KV-1 hull is curved, so that allowed me to hide the
drive axle in the rear of the tank. The rear axle consists of a
4.5" diameter 5/8" bore keyed sprocket that passes through a 5/8" flanged
bearing on the hull. The axle was cut down to 1/2" on the inside of the
hull where it passes through the 2" v-belt pulley and then two surface
mount 1/2" bearings. The two surface mount bearings may be overkill,
but what the heck, it provides great stability! I used Herr John's
method of laminating two sheets of 3/32" plywood to form the curved rear
end cover. It's removable so that I can access the set screws on the
surface mount bearings.
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Click Photo For Enlargement (173 Kb)
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After two unsuccessful attempts at creating a tensioning system out of
angle brackets, I thought of a much simpler approach. Using the 3/4"
square aluminum leftover from building the lower bogie wheel assembly,
I cut two pieces of 3/4" oak into 3" high, 2" wide blocks. I drilled and
chiseled out a 3/4" square, 1/4" deep area in order to accept the ends
of the aluminum. Drill three holes through the aluminum for 1/4" eye-
bolts, attached the wood & aluminum assembly to the side of the hull and
you're done! Stress-tested the system by putting the tracks on and
cranking up the pressure until I could not turn the nuts on the
eye-bolts any further. Left it over night just for good luck and no
bending of the aluminum or separation of the wood mounts from the hull
occurred. All-in-all the cheapest, simplest and one of the most
important parts of the KV-1.
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Click Photo For Enlargement (158 Kb)
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October 22, 2003:
Just like the Russians, the KV-1 rapid prototyping production unit has been completed in time for the Fall
battle. Using the latest in Tri-Pact technology , the rear wheel drive KV-1 is ready for battle. This
overhead shot of the hull shows the layout of the servos in the front to the fine tuned motors in the rear.
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Click Photo For Enlargement (105 Kb)
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Click Photo For Enlargement (81 Kb)
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After screwing up the current Tri-Pact method of mounting the servos to an aluminum bracket, I built
simple wood mounts for the servos. Mounting the switches on wood made the fine tune adjusting of the
switch to servo connection easier. Simply moving the switch to the proper location and shoot some nails to
hold it in place!
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Master Yoda (Frank) called for controller board suspension, that's what he gets. Due to my wife's
decorating habit, I happen to have two plate hangers. The springs were perfect size to suspend the
controller assembly in the hull. If you're wondering where the connector board is for the motor cables, they
are mounted on the other side of the controller board. Again, Master Yoda wanted to provide stability for
the soldered cables running from the controller board to the connector board.
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Click Photo For Enlargement (118 Kb)
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Click Photo For Enlargement (87 Kb)
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Oh the joy of new powerful motors. Using the bottom of the hull as the base, we cut a piece of aluminum
and clamped the motor mount arms to the hull to create a pivot point. The v-belts drive a small axle that in
turn is connected to the rear drive axles via chain.
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Although the claim is that I have plenty of space in the turret, because the gun of the KV-1 is mounted
above the center line of the font view, the down-angle for the paintball hopper is not steep at all. This is
the shakiest part of the KV-1, but who needs more than four paintballs to kill a Tyng tank!
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Click Photo For Enlargement (65 Kb)
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