R/C Tank Combat

Tank #T012

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New M1 motor mount. Materials needed, M1 motor, 3" heavy duty steel strap hinge,two 4" cast iron bearings, 4 five inch lengths 1/2" threaded rod and assorted lock washers and nuts. And 2.5 inch turnbuckle. Front of unit is welded to the bottom with a 1/2 wide strap. Low bolt next to the hinge is also welded in place. Bolted through the chassis, 1/2" ply,3/8" ply and fiberglass will make for a very stable base. The motor hinges upward. Allows for perfect chain tension. Once the proper tension is decided on,simply adjust turnbuckle, install wedge under motor and screw down rear of motor. At least that's the theory. We'll report on real world in a few weeks.

MAG Industries were hard at work this week. The entire hull was glassed and is ready for installation of it's new systems. Here you can see that new motor mounts in place and at the rear the main battery kill switch on the right. The wires on the left are from the receiver switch. Yes the hole is very big, the top machinist and engineer, Frank, pointed that out already. But,the leftover rubber ends from the tie-down straps used on the Comet provided a perfect stopper complete with hole for the wires. Iwt was planned that way. LOL.
 

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The top of the fighting compartment is hinged for easy access. The front plate was milled to allow the hinge more freedom of movement. Head engineer and machinist, yeah Frank again, decided that the original plan, (mine), to slap the hinge on top was " Not good enough for the Alliance". Main battery kill switch was moved higher from it's old location in the Pz IV. That should end any accidental loss of power. Yes it happened once in the tall brush. It's not much fun being totally defenseless.

My favorite addition to the Brummbar. And the top machinist thought it was cool also. I recessed the end of the muffler to hold the switch for the receiver. Nice tight fitting resin coated ply. The rubber outer sleeve will keep out the goo. Tucked it out of the way to prevent accidental loss of power to the receiver. High weeds and brambles tend to be strong enough to flip switches sometimes. Oh to be able to battle on a nice cricket pitch.
 

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Scooter motor controllers, coupled with circuitry designed by MAG R&D.I believe these are one direction controllers that reverse due to the magic in the boards.

More board magic at work. Upper left, a pot to adjust voltage to rotate and elevate motors. These are regular motors, very strong might I add. Limits switches are used to control the range of motion.Elevate is very simple, a cam and arm to lower and raise the barrel rests under the marker mount.The wiring wizard, Alpha Wolf, did not go into to much detail since it would have been wasted on us screw it, bolt it , glue it and nail it techs. We do know that it all runs off of one 12volt 7AH battery . That leaves two 26AH batteries to power the 24 volt M1's.
 

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My favorite part. The ball mount and gun tube. The ball mount was a 5" ball, sort of like a giant tennis ball . Shave off the fuzz, which was not easy, the add I think a least 3 coatings of epoxy with micro-balloons and Voila. Instant ball mount. It is not a permanent mount, it slides off easily to make service easier. Wait till you see it all together.

Close up view of the elevate motor control and the rotate motor control. The marker rests on top of the brace an is held firmly in place with a hose clamp. Undo the hose clamp and disconnect the wires to the actuator and the marker slides out for service.
 

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