----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:22
PM
Subject: quick BT-7 [TANKS]
Thanks Paul. I understand the relationship
between speed and torque and gears ratio, I just don't seem able to implement
it. MOre axles, more ball bearings to secure everything so things don't go
wobbly, a tensioner for the roller chain, trouble of opening and locking
roller chains.... Have never done it.
I will see how you do the drive shaft and
perhaps will copy ideas from your systems. As I said , in a year or
two from now. I need to spend more money on batteries for both my tanks
and more markers. And, it will be a white BT-5, after Chris's
suggestion!. WIll dry brush it with olive green to enhance the edges and
give it a weathered, veteran look, so she's not like Snowhite in the field.
White is stained very easily and dust, grease and mud
will do the rest. Actually, during these 2 years I could take
the difference in temperature between a hull or just a large tin box painted
white and dark olive. More research. That's the beauty of this
forum!
I was also thinking of a spray can of compressed
air - teh kind you use for cleaning computers- that sprays the motors everynow
and then at will, from an extra channel on the RC. It should cost more than
batteries on teh fans, but it's effective, cool and gives instant freezing
temperatures. Don't know if teh latter is good for the motors....
Chrys
Chrys,
I simply can not let
this stand. Let's look at .25 pitch chain drive first. If you
use two 14 tooth sprockets you get a 1:1 ratio, meaning that if you turn
the input gear one time, the output gear also turns one time and torque
remains the same. If you use one 7 tooth sprocket and one 14 tooth you
get either a 2:1 ratio or a 1:2 ratio depending on which sprocket is used
as the input. So, if you use the 7 tooth sprocket as the input (2:1 ratio) the
output speed is reduced by half and torque is increased X2. If you use
the 14 tooth sprocket as the input, speed is increased X2 and the torque
is reduced by half. The length of chain doesn't matter. This is
the simple version by far, but as you gain a bit more confidence, you can
delve a bit deeper.
Paul
Hilton.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 12:08
PM
Subject: quick BT-7 [TANKS]
I know Paul, only pulleys and gears are above
my skills level.
Chrys
OK, that's
better. So, as you can see there isn't any room for a direct
drive. the gears for the final drive shafts are housed in those disk
shaped housings. The final drive shafts are mounted in the tube
that connects the two housings. The relationship between the tube,
housings and drive cog are such that it isn't really possible to "fake" the
rear of the vehicle and move the drive cog forward. I would think that
it would resemble a pickup truck with the rear wheels right behind the
cab. Just not quite right. I've decided to simply accept
the structure and use it pretty much as it was originally,
with sprockets for chain drives inside the two housings and either
a pair of live shafts or a long continuous dead shaft inside the tube.
The dead shaft would offer more stability, the live shafts are simpler to
construct.
Paul
Hilton