| From: | sasquevaneach-at-aim.com |
| Subject: | Re: Phil's tracks [TANKS [TANKS] |
| Date: | Mon, 15 Oct 2007 10:47:15 -0400 |
| Reply-To: | tanks-at-rctankcombat.com |
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Hello Phil ,
I love your super 24 V motors in place.
I see in a previous message that you want to try a cage type or pin cog drive system to engage the bolts.
If so, you should try shorter bolts. Even with 15 mm long bolts, the bolts hit the pin, as they start to wrap around teh drive wheel. See in attachement, pink and red arcs of hinges' rotation close up view below. The pins should be no more than 2 mms away from the rim of the wheel, so they engage well and they don't hit the bolts near their tips, if you know what I mean. Even 15 mm long bolts barely make "under" teh pin it as you can see in attachemnt. Some hit the pin as they enter the circle and jump a little. Remember that your track will be stretched about 2cms after a few rides and the pins will be filed down a little after a while, so everything will roll smoother. BUt 20 mm long bolts won't even make it into THIS wheel.
Short bolts will throw a track when very loose and then you need the guide plates on either side of teh wheels... I guess you'll try everything with a wooden dummy wheel. BUT! if you come up with a system that engages 20 mm long bolts, I'd love to know about it. I was too bored to search it more on CAD before actual action, and I was happy with teh action, so I patched up with guide plates to go around the problem.
20 mm long bolts work for Neil's Locust that has a friction system, and things do not interact like a gear.
I see that Mathew, Neil and Phil all like the bell crank-no-springs-involved suspensions, hinges and cage or friction type drive systems.... Designation numbers to come soon for Britain.
Chrys (STill working on the PC through the weekend) Kane
That is one very nice suspension, Neil. I see what you mean about longer bolts on the tracks- double-bolts to stop it slipping off. Just ordered 20mm bolts likewise.
Phil Palmer |