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From: Micah Leibowitz <bbandit97-at-yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: speed controllers [TANKS]
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 23:19:21 -0700 (PDT)
Reply-To: tanks-at-rctankcombat.com

"tried troubleshooting to determine which component failed?"
Near as I can tell, somehow the micro controller was flashed or repregrammed, or started ignoring its inputs. As its been reporgrammed and i think is working fine now.  
 
I realize that using bnatteries as a current limiter is a less than ideal situation but in the world of combat robotics weight is everything.  Because of the "arms race" many are forced to use high strung small motors  instead of larger more industrial  size/duty ones.  (think nitro hopped up honda vs detroit diesel) In many ways the Tankers are very lucky in that there is no hard weight limit and when you loose there isn't a good chance that your $1000 investment ends up in the trash. 
 
As a robot builder I can say my priority when building a new machine is being able to make it go where I want it, drive train is everything. In an ideal situation everything is speced well above what you think is a worst case scenario. If money were truly no option i would run nothing but vantec controllers, which i beleive are very top of the line. But in the real world I find the IFI robotics line of escs are an excellent value for money. These are my experences, take them for what they are.
 

George Mastoras <idiom-at-optusnet.com.au> wrote:
on 12/7/07 9:58 AM, Clark Ward Jr at ki4gyt-at-gmail.com wrote:

> It's likely that the use of tiny batteries led to a voltage drop when
> you required a lot of current, which caused the problems with some
> sensitive electronics. It's not a good idea to use less than adequate
> batteries for that reason. Sorry that it happened, though. Have you
>
>


Absolutely, Stressing out your batteries to regulate current is not an ideal
method. I used to do that myself. One thing about the XL is when running
above 15 volts a wire on the board needs to be clipped so if u are starting
at 22 with small batteries then you will be getting voltage drops.
And yes the devils in the details, I went the opposite direction in that I
used batteries that can supply stall current to the motor and used an esc
that can handle the stall current - thats called getting the max power from
your motors which means I can go real slow and push real hard, not just flat
out and can push from standing starts using the motors stall current.

For the record I have also blown an XL. Have had it repaired and they have
since done an update to the board regarding issues that had happened
regarding things like big voltage drops. I blew mine over volting car fan
motors with it which where clearly over the units rating.
There was an early issue that was identified by people like us pushing the
unit outside its comfort zone. Its not fun blowing electronics up but
luckily it can be repaired cheaply and its one of the cheapest controllers
available.
I also know of local teams that have started using them in 30 pound combat
robots running drill motors and M1 batteries and they are also happy with
them.

I guess if there is one point I have been trying to make with my recent
ramblings is that motor selection is such a key decision.

The lower the amps required, the cheaper everything else is and the longer
it will run.



Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.