| From: | anvilus9-at-comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: motors [TANKS] |
| Date: | Sun, 21 Jan 2007 15:02:48 +0000 |
| Reply-To: | tanks-at-rctankcombat.com |
Derek and fellow tankers, -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Derek Engelhaupt" <tankme-at-gmail.com> > I did find some that are similar > to the ones Steve was selling. The are on Ebay: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT > &viewitem=&item=330060009617&rd=1&rd=1. > These are 250W so I'm not quite sure if they have enough power or not. I > emailed the seller and the motors don't have a base that they mount to, they > have holes in the face to facemount them. > Yet another alternative would be > these motors, but I have ruled them out on this tank because of their large > size: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT > &viewitem=&item=330060009572&rd=1&rd=1. > Those are rated for 36V-at-750W and at 24V they would end up putting out about > 500W according to my calculations. There is yet another alternative, but > I'm not sure if I can let the cat out of the bag on that matter. This is the other alternative to which Derek alluded. Unite Motors no longer makes the 24V 350W motor with gear reducer and mounting feet (MY1016Z3-350W) that Steve Tyng formerly sold. They do make an identical 24V 300W motor with gear reducer and mounting feet (MY1016Z3-300W). However Unite will only sell these motors directly to individuals at minimum QTY=24 or to distributors at minimum QTY=6. After discussing this issue with Steve last fall, he informed me that he no longer wanted to import motors from Unite. In November, I contacted TNC Scooter to order QTY=6 of the 300W motors but they reneged on their promise. In December, they told me that they could not order them until late spring. Consequently, I ordered QTY=24 of the 24V 300W motors directly from Unite and had them shipped by UPS with delivery scheduled for Tuesday 1/23. Eight of them are already promised to buyers. The remaining 16 will be available for sale. Specs for MY1016Z3-300W motors http://unitemotor.com/unite/en/Products.asp?ClassID=0582416161057771 24V 300W 9.779 reducer 388 rpm no load 6.1 lbm I investigated both motors that Derek discussed above before I chose the MY1016Z3-300W motors. These were my opinions. Specs for MY1018-250W motors http://unitemotor.com/unite/en/Products.asp?ClassID=0551109203696836 24V 250W 7.182 reducer 466 rpm no load 4.8 lbm Lower power (250W versus 300W) and lower speed reduction (7.2 versus 9.8) means significantly lower torque. I do not believe that these motors will have sufficient torque for full-skid turns in our tanks. Also face mounting was much more difficult in my designs than base mounting for the 300W motors. Unite no longer makes the 36V 750W motor sold by TNC Scooter on eBay. They do make a similar motor in 350W, 450W and 600W sizes. Specs for MY1020Z3-350-600W motors http://unitemotor.com/unite/en/Products.asp?ClassID=055110929001904 36V 600W 6.67 reducer 524 rpm no load at 36V (350 rpm expected at 24V) 12.1 lbm Derek's idea to operate this larger motor at 24V has merit but it is far too big (8.8 inches long) and heavy (12.1 lb) for my designs. Please send a private Email off the list if you are interested in the MY1016Z3-300W motors. Joe -- Joe Sommer, Anvilus Machine Works 2378 Nantucket Circle, State College, PA 16803 814.234.4773 anvilus9-at-comcast.net http://www.anvilus.com
From: "Derek Engelhaupt" <tankme-at-gmail.com> Subject: Re: motors [TANKS] Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2007 04:39:34 +0000 I'm just using a standard #40 ANSI sprocket that I got from www.surpluscenter.com. I was planning on using one of the pairs of the EV Warrior motors I have, but I may have found an alternative since I am really limited in space in the rear of my tank. I could make the EV's work, but I'm not sure at this point if I WANT to make them work. If I made them work, maintenance would be a major hassle. I did find some that are similar to the ones Steve was selling. The are on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=330060009617&rd=1&rd=1 . These are 250W so I'm not quite sure if they have enough power or not. I emailed the seller and the motors don't have a base that they mount to, they have holes in the face to facemount them. Yet another alternative would be these motors, but I have ruled them out on this tank because of their large size: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=330060009572&rd=1&rd=1 . Those are rated for 36V-at-750W and at 24V they would end up putting out about 500W according to my calculations. There is yet another alternative, but I'm not sure if I can let the cat out of the bag on that matter.Derek
On 1/20/07, rcdude gt <rcmac143-at-hotmail.com> wrote:derek where did you find the sprocket for that chain. and what motor are you
planning on using
>From: "Derek Engelhaupt" <tankme-at-gmail.com>
>Reply-To: tanks-at-rctankcombat.com
>To: tanks-at-rctankcombat.com
>Subject: Re: motors [TANKS]
>Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2007 19:52:23 -0600
>
>I have that exact chain that I am trying out on my ASU-85. It looks
>workable, but I have yet to be able to put a full load on the tracks to see
>how they perform. I have cut the center tabs off of mine with a
>side-cutters so those tabs in the middle are now non-existant in my
>installation. Took awhile to cut them all off and got a nice blister in
>the
>process (weak computer geek hands). No offense to any computer geeks out
>there or individuals aspiring to become computer geeks. In my mind,
>computer geeks are a noble group of people. One note, the track is not of
>the straight running variety and for that reason I am using sprockets on
>both ends of the track to keep it from coming off of the idler. I'm sure a
>regular non-sproketed idler would also be workable, but that's just not the
>route I decided to pursue. I also had to make quite a wide alignment
>groove
>in my wheels (about 1") for the chain to run through. The tracks are quite
>light due to the use of acetal for the tabletop area, but probably not as
>light at the TTS system. They would be lighter that using the 2060
>attachment chain. I think if you bolt more material to them in order to
>widen them it will increase the weight of the tracks significantly.
>Without
>having my suspension totally complete I am dealing with track droop since
>my
>design has no top rollers to hold the track up. That problem will more
>than
>likely be solved by increasing the tension of the very first and very last
>road wheels on the tank. I think that will keep the droop to a minimum and
>allow the track to run smoothly. Not having much time to work on the tank
>and the increasingly frigid weather here in MN (no heat in my garage) has
>kept me from completing the left side suspension and motor mounting
>otherwise I could begin some field testing of the system. BTW, tank T048
>made by Paul
>Ratajczak< http://www.rctankcombat.com/statistics/OperatorHistory.cgi?name=Paul
>Ratajczak> is using this same type of chain, but it looks like he has no
>suspension on his tank unlike me. I decided to go with these tracks
>because
>of the price and simplicity of installation. All in all I paid $40 for the
>tracks and I'm using about $10 worth of sprocket to drive them. Fifty
>dollars is well worth the price of admission if it saves me track building
>time.
>
>Derek (no computer geeks were harmed in the writing of this Email)
>Engelhaupt
>
>
>On 1/20/07, OdysseySlipways-at-aol.com < OdysseySlipways-at-aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm tempted to get one of them chain units just to check it out - can't
>>beat the price
>>
>>Chris
>>Odyssey Slipways <http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html>
>>