Take a look. Basically the suspension uses a shaft collar with an extended screw as a mount point for the spring. The 1/2" bolts make sure the shaft collar was firmly pressing on the bearing mounted in the hull and provides extra holding power to the collar. The eyelet allows the spring to let the suspension droop somewhat. It doesn't droop as much as I hoped, but it works. I used 1/8" aluminum "L" stock for my mounts for the eye hooks. The eyelets can be adjusted further away from the axle by about 1/2" giving my the ability to adjust the tension on each suspension arm. Also the shaft collars can be advanced to give me an additional 1/2" of adjustment. So all in all about 1" of tension adjustment. The brackets are bolted to the bottom of the chassis and liquid nailed in place. I didn't want to have anything protruding out of the bottom of the chassis, but it couldn't be avoid! ed. I originally tried to mound the brackets to the side of the hull, but the small phillips screw heads would interfere with the suspension arm movement. The whole setup yields a little over 2" of travel upward before the tracks hit the hull upward. With 3" of ground clearance and 2" of suspension travel, I think it will be ready to handle most obstacles. The last pic is of my current EV Warrior setup. Kinda cramped in there, but once again it works. The whole motor/gear reduction only takes up 9" of the hull. Believe me, it is shoe horned in there, but I need the rest of the hull for batteries and of course a gun.....:)
Derek
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