Title: Re: Track Questions [TANKS]
Just regarding the track tension discussion, just my 2 cents worth, not claiming to be an expert, just things I have observed.
My first question is about track slack. It seems to me that having some slack in the track of a suspended vehicle allows one to "store" extra track length in the upper part of the track for use when the suspension travels.
I have a different opinion on that, I believe track tension is more relevant to driving efficiency and not suspension. Sure, loose suspension can cause you to derail but going over bumps already loosens track tension so any extra track is not required.
I believe track tension to be related to the tension placed on the drive sprocket and wheels. Too much tension and you will overheat your motors and wear out bearings.
Tanks with Christie wheel setups deal with this better as when the road wheels get lifted (loosening track tension )they will eventually lift the top track increasing tension but return roller systems donšt have any way to do this so extra complexity is sometimes used to add a compensating idler. Interestingly but have not noticed compensators on any modern tanks.
From what I understand return rollers where to stop the track flapping around. Tanks with return rollers usually have their road wheel arms dropped lower to improve ground clearance with smaller wheels. T34 was a very low tank compared with US tanks with rollers.
T34 was also a tank that was considered to have a tight track due to its sprocket/track design and wheel placement.
I've noticed that full-scale tracked vehicles can be either front-drive or rear-drive. The engine seems to be always at the same end as the drive wheels, but I'm not sure whether, in general, the engine location determines the drive-wheel location or vice versa.
In WW2 it was very common to have the engine in the rear and the gearbox/sprockets at the front. T34 was different and rear sprocket driven tanks have become the norm unless you are carrying troops.
Having your sprocket at the rear means that you track is tightest on the ground and suits things like jumping because even in the air the track is pulled tight between the idler and first road wheel minimising chances of throwing a track.
It also means that when your track has passed the drive sprocket its natural forces will make it want to push down on the return rollers minimising movement.
So in summary I personally adjust my track tension to allow the transmission to work as fast and as efficient as possible with as little slack in the tracks as possible because when you accelerate the rear downward forces will loosen the tension immediately so anticipate that.