Re: Adding rubber cleats on tracks? Joe Sommer help! [TANKS]

["Amir Tahvildaran" <adt22-at-drexel.edu>]

Here is the message:
http://www.rctankcombat.com/archive/2006-04/msg00223.html

After spending yesterday rebuilding my TTS to remove rotten treads I'm 
thinking of a ready made system too.

-Amir

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Bruder" <hobbydad-at-adelphia.net>
To: <tanks-at-rctankcombat.com>
Cc: "Rob" <Rsnyder-at-cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: Adding rubber cleats on tracks? Joe Sommer help! [TANKS]


> Thanks, but that is not the stuff I am asking about.  Someone on the list 
> put out a notice a while back that they bought a bunch of similar stuff 
> with flat sides that would work on a TTS system.  It was about $25.00 for 
> 20 feet or so.
>
> thanks,
>
> John
>
> ---- Rob <Rsnyder-at-cox.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> The plastic conveyor belt I am using is the same stuff that Joe Sommer 
> used
> on the Hetzer. It is also documented on the RC tank combat site.  I talked
> to Joe at the last two Maryland Tank Battles.  The belt is made by 
> Intralox
> and costs about $ 76 per 10 foot section (that's the stock belting.)  It 
> did
> not come with extra spare rods.  I have also been talking the guys at
> Chatten Associates - (they came up with the cleating process that Joe
> informed us about below.)   Each track has to be cast sperately to add the
> cleats.  You need a spare rod for each link.  If  you all are using a
> different track system, I would be interested in knowing which type it is.
>
> Good Luck and Happy July 4th
>
> Rob
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "John Bruder" <hobbydad-at-adelphia.net>
> To: <tanks-at-rctankcombat.com>
> Cc: "WJ" <WJ-at-vdtogt.nl>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:49 AM
> Subject: Re: Adding rubber cleats on tracks? Joe Sommer help! [TANKS]
>
>
>> Who was it on the list that had the plastic converyor belting at a very
>> low price?  It was the flat sided stuff.
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> John
>>
>> ---- WJ <WJ-at-vdtogt.nl> wrote:
>>
>> =============
>> Mhm, If I read your story about the belts, I would swear you have a
>> completely different type!  The belts we use came with a spare rod, and
>> you can just use that one to push out one of the rods in the track to
>> seperate it.
>>
>>
>>> All,
>>>
>>> I am in the process of getting ready to add my cleats to the Intralox
>>> belts. One thing that you might want to keep in mind. The nylon rod that
>>> connects each piece together is a disposal piece. Intralox reccomends
>>> cutting them when seperating the links.  I tired using a screw driver to
>>> pull the rod out, but this ends up tearing up the "sidelox" of each 
>>> link.
>>> The replacement rods only cost about 10 Cents (US) each.  Rather than
>>> tear
>>> up my tracks pulling rods, I just ended up ordering some replacements.
>>> The
>>> cleats are nice to add to the tracks, but alot of work. Molding and
>>> casting is not really too hard, I have done resin casting with silcon
>>> molds.   Good luck to all.
>>>
>>> Rob Snyder
>>>   ----- Original Message -----
>>>   From: Marc en Wendy
>>>   To: tanks-at-rctankcombat.com
>>>   Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 2:33 AM
>>>   Subject: Re: Adding rubber cleats on tracks? Joe Sommer help! [TANKS]
>>>
>>>
>>> This is the e-mail Joe sent a while ago.
>>>
>>> Marc
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Joe Sommer" <anvilus9-at-adelphia.net>
>>> To: "Marc en Wendy" <marcmethorst-at-zonnet.nl>
>>> Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 3:50 AM
>>> Subject: Fwd: Track Cleats
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> original message from Chatten per your request
>>>>
>>>> Joe
>>>>
>>>>>Feel free to use the spare cleats to make masters for the molds. You
>>>>> need
>>>>>to mill off the outsides of the track segments, as shown on the 
>>>>>attached
>>>>>drawing. You will also need to remove the tracking tabs.
>>>>>
>>>>><http://www.smoothon.com>http://www.smoothon.com
>>>>>   Mold Max 30 - silicon mold material (requires vacuum bell jar to get
>>>>> out bubbles)
>>>>>   PMC-790 - urethane rubber is what we used
>>>>>
>>>>>One "Trial Size" of Mold Max 30 should be enough. I will send you our
>>>>>PMC-790, plus the softer stuff. I also found our aerosol spray can of
>>>>> mold
>>>>>release, which I will send along (be careful not to overdo it).
>>>>>
>>>>>You will want to find a source for 5cc syringe bodies. They are very
>>>>>useful for injecting urethane into the molds.
>>>>>
>>>>>The best way to make a mold box (for pouring the silicon) is to wrap
>>>>> tape
>>>>>around the milled-off track segment. I will send you some photos
>>>>> tomorrow
>>>>>of the process.
>>>>>
>>>>>Once you have enough silicon molds, you can lightly spray them with 
>>>>>mold
>>>>>release, insert track segments into each mold, and cast urethane around
>>>>>the track segment. (Try not to get mold release onto the track 
>>>>>segments.
>>>>>Also be sure to very thoroughly mix the urethane, or else it will not
>>>>> cure
>>>>>correctly.) After the urethane has hardened, you can peel the mold away
>>>>>from the track. Some excess urethane may need to be cleaned up. Then 
>>>>>you
>>>>>need to cure the finished pieces in an oven at 175 degrees Fahrenheit
>>>>> for
>>>>>a couple of hours.
>>>>>
>>>>>Our experience was that the entire casting/curing process for 20 tracks
>>>>>takes about five hours. You will need about 200 tracks, so allow time.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> **********************************************
>>>> Joe Sommer, Anvilus Machine Works
>>>> 2378 Nantucket Circle, State College, PA 16803
>>>> 814.234.4773     anvilus9-at-adelphia.net
>>>> http://www.anvilus.com
>>> cleat_v4.pdf
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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