Re: Adding rubber cleats on tracks? Joe Sommer help! [TANKS]

[JOHN PITTELLI <jplily-at-yahoo.com>]

That was Bill in Coxsackie. he's building the WW1
tank.

--- John Bruder <hobbydad-at-adelphia.net> wrote:

> Thanks, but that is not the stuff I am asking about.
>  Someone on the list put out a notice a while back
> that they bought a bunch of similar stuff with flat
> sides that would work on a TTS system.  It was about
> $25.00 for 20 feet or so.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John
> 
> ---- Rob <Rsnyder-at-cox.net> wrote: 
> 
> =============
> The plastic conveyor belt I am using is the same
> stuff that Joe Sommer used 
> on the Hetzer. It is also documented on the RC tank
> combat site.  I talked 
> to Joe at the last two Maryland Tank Battles.  The
> belt is made by Intralox 
> and costs about $ 76 per 10 foot section (that's the
> stock belting.)  It did 
> not come with extra spare rods.  I have also been
> talking the guys at 
> Chatten Associates - (they came up with the cleating
> process that Joe 
> informed us about below.)   Each track has to be
> cast sperately to add the 
> cleats.  You need a spare rod for each link.  If 
> you all are using a 
> different track system, I would be interested in
> knowing which type it is.
> 
> Good Luck and Happy July 4th
> 
> Rob
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "John Bruder" <hobbydad-at-adelphia.net>
> To: <tanks-at-rctankcombat.com>
> Cc: "WJ" <WJ-at-vdtogt.nl>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:49 AM
> Subject: Re: Adding rubber cleats on tracks? Joe
> Sommer help! [TANKS]
> 
> 
> > Who was it on the list that had the plastic
> converyor belting at a very 
> > low price?  It was the flat sided stuff.
> >
> > thanks,
> >
> > John
> >
> > ---- WJ <WJ-at-vdtogt.nl> wrote:
> >
> > =============
> > Mhm, If I read your story about the belts, I would
> swear you have a
> > completely different type!  The belts we use came
> with a spare rod, and
> > you can just use that one to push out one of the
> rods in the track to
> > seperate it.
> >
> >
> >> All,
> >>
> >> I am in the process of getting ready to add my
> cleats to the Intralox
> >> belts. One thing that you might want to keep in
> mind. The nylon rod that
> >> connects each piece together is a disposal piece.
> Intralox reccomends
> >> cutting them when seperating the links.  I tired
> using a screw driver to
> >> pull the rod out, but this ends up tearing up the
> "sidelox" of each link.
> >> The replacement rods only cost about 10 Cents
> (US) each.  Rather than 
> >> tear
> >> up my tracks pulling rods, I just ended up
> ordering some replacements. 
> >> The
> >> cleats are nice to add to the tracks, but alot of
> work. Molding and
> >> casting is not really too hard, I have done resin
> casting with silcon
> >> molds.   Good luck to all.
> >>
> >> Rob Snyder
> >>   ----- Original Message -----
> >>   From: Marc en Wendy
> >>   To: tanks-at-rctankcombat.com
> >>   Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 2:33 AM
> >>   Subject: Re: Adding rubber cleats on tracks?
> Joe Sommer help! [TANKS]
> >>
> >>
> >> This is the e-mail Joe sent a while ago.
> >>
> >> Marc
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Joe Sommer" <anvilus9-at-adelphia.net>
> >> To: "Marc en Wendy" <marcmethorst-at-zonnet.nl>
> >> Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 3:50 AM
> >> Subject: Fwd: Track Cleats
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>> original message from Chatten per your request
> >>>
> >>> Joe
> >>>
> >>>>Feel free to use the spare cleats to make
> masters for the molds. You
> >>>> need
> >>>>to mill off the outsides of the track segments,
> as shown on the attached
> >>>>drawing. You will also need to remove the
> tracking tabs.
> >>>>
> >>>><http://www.smoothon.com>http://www.smoothon.com
> >>>>   Mold Max 30 - silicon mold material (requires
> vacuum bell jar to get
> >>>> out bubbles)
> >>>>   PMC-790 - urethane rubber is what we used
> >>>>
> >>>>One "Trial Size" of Mold Max 30 should be
> enough. I will send you our
> >>>>PMC-790, plus the softer stuff. I also found our
> aerosol spray can of
> >>>> mold
> >>>>release, which I will send along (be careful not
> to overdo it).
> >>>>
> >>>>You will want to find a source for 5cc syringe
> bodies. They are very
> >>>>useful for injecting urethane into the molds.
> >>>>
> >>>>The best way to make a mold box (for pouring the
> silicon) is to wrap
> >>>> tape
> >>>>around the milled-off track segment. I will send
> you some photos
> >>>> tomorrow
> >>>>of the process.
> >>>>
> >>>>Once you have enough silicon molds, you can
> lightly spray them with mold
> >>>>release, insert track segments into each mold,
> and cast urethane around
> >>>>the track segment. (Try not to get mold release
> onto the track segments.
> >>>>Also be sure to very thoroughly mix the
> urethane, or else it will not
> >>>> cure
> >>>>correctly.) After the urethane has hardened, you
> can peel the mold away
> >>>>from the track. Some excess urethane may need to
> be cleaned up. Then you
> >>>>need to cure the finished pieces in an oven at
> 175 degrees Fahrenheit
> >>>> for
> >>>>a couple of hours.
> >>>>
> >>>>Our experience was that the entire
> casting/curing process for 20 tracks
> >>>>takes about five hours. You will need about 200
> tracks, so allow time.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> **********************************************
> >>> Joe Sommer, Anvilus Machine Works
> >>> 2378 Nantucket Circle, State College, PA 16803
> >>> 814.234.4773     anvilus9-at-adelphia.net
> >>> http://www.anvilus.com
> >> cleat_v4.pdf
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 


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