Re: Adding rubber cleats on tracks? Joe Sommer help! [TANKS]

[John Bruder <hobbydad-at-adelphia.net>]

Thanks, but that is not the stuff I am asking about.  Someone on the list put out a 
notice a while back that they bought a bunch of similar stuff with flat sides that 
would work on a TTS system.  It was about $25.00 for 20 feet or so.

thanks,

John

---- Rob <Rsnyder-at-cox.net> wrote: 

=============
The plastic conveyor belt I am using is the same stuff that Joe Sommer used 
on the Hetzer. It is also documented on the RC tank combat site.  I talked 
to Joe at the last two Maryland Tank Battles.  The belt is made by Intralox 
and costs about $ 76 per 10 foot section (that's the stock belting.)  It did 
not come with extra spare rods.  I have also been talking the guys at 
Chatten Associates - (they came up with the cleating process that Joe 
informed us about below.)   Each track has to be cast sperately to add the 
cleats.  You need a spare rod for each link.  If  you all are using a 
different track system, I would be interested in knowing which type it is.

Good Luck and Happy July 4th

Rob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Bruder" <hobbydad-at-adelphia.net>
To: <tanks-at-rctankcombat.com>
Cc: "WJ" <WJ-at-vdtogt.nl>
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:49 AM
Subject: Re: Adding rubber cleats on tracks? Joe Sommer help! [TANKS]


> Who was it on the list that had the plastic converyor belting at a very 
> low price?  It was the flat sided stuff.
>
> thanks,
>
> John
>
> ---- WJ <WJ-at-vdtogt.nl> wrote:
>
> =============
> Mhm, If I read your story about the belts, I would swear you have a
> completely different type!  The belts we use came with a spare rod, and
> you can just use that one to push out one of the rods in the track to
> seperate it.
>
>
>> All,
>>
>> I am in the process of getting ready to add my cleats to the Intralox
>> belts. One thing that you might want to keep in mind. The nylon rod that
>> connects each piece together is a disposal piece. Intralox reccomends
>> cutting them when seperating the links.  I tired using a screw driver to
>> pull the rod out, but this ends up tearing up the "sidelox" of each link.
>> The replacement rods only cost about 10 Cents (US) each.  Rather than 
>> tear
>> up my tracks pulling rods, I just ended up ordering some replacements. 
>> The
>> cleats are nice to add to the tracks, but alot of work. Molding and
>> casting is not really too hard, I have done resin casting with silcon
>> molds.   Good luck to all.
>>
>> Rob Snyder
>>   ----- Original Message -----
>>   From: Marc en Wendy
>>   To: tanks-at-rctankcombat.com
>>   Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 2:33 AM
>>   Subject: Re: Adding rubber cleats on tracks? Joe Sommer help! [TANKS]
>>
>>
>> This is the e-mail Joe sent a while ago.
>>
>> Marc
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Joe Sommer" <anvilus9-at-adelphia.net>
>> To: "Marc en Wendy" <marcmethorst-at-zonnet.nl>
>> Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 3:50 AM
>> Subject: Fwd: Track Cleats
>>
>>
>>>
>>> original message from Chatten per your request
>>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>>>Feel free to use the spare cleats to make masters for the molds. You
>>>> need
>>>>to mill off the outsides of the track segments, as shown on the attached
>>>>drawing. You will also need to remove the tracking tabs.
>>>>
>>>><http://www.smoothon.com>http://www.smoothon.com
>>>>   Mold Max 30 - silicon mold material (requires vacuum bell jar to get
>>>> out bubbles)
>>>>   PMC-790 - urethane rubber is what we used
>>>>
>>>>One "Trial Size" of Mold Max 30 should be enough. I will send you our
>>>>PMC-790, plus the softer stuff. I also found our aerosol spray can of
>>>> mold
>>>>release, which I will send along (be careful not to overdo it).
>>>>
>>>>You will want to find a source for 5cc syringe bodies. They are very
>>>>useful for injecting urethane into the molds.
>>>>
>>>>The best way to make a mold box (for pouring the silicon) is to wrap
>>>> tape
>>>>around the milled-off track segment. I will send you some photos
>>>> tomorrow
>>>>of the process.
>>>>
>>>>Once you have enough silicon molds, you can lightly spray them with mold
>>>>release, insert track segments into each mold, and cast urethane around
>>>>the track segment. (Try not to get mold release onto the track segments.
>>>>Also be sure to very thoroughly mix the urethane, or else it will not
>>>> cure
>>>>correctly.) After the urethane has hardened, you can peel the mold away
>>>>from the track. Some excess urethane may need to be cleaned up. Then you
>>>>need to cure the finished pieces in an oven at 175 degrees Fahrenheit
>>>> for
>>>>a couple of hours.
>>>>
>>>>Our experience was that the entire casting/curing process for 20 tracks
>>>>takes about five hours. You will need about 200 tracks, so allow time.
>>>
>>>
>>> **********************************************
>>> Joe Sommer, Anvilus Machine Works
>>> 2378 Nantucket Circle, State College, PA 16803
>>> 814.234.4773     anvilus9-at-adelphia.net
>>> http://www.anvilus.com
>> cleat_v4.pdf
>>
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