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RE: Joe Sommer/Anvilus [TANKS]
Mon, 10 Apr 2006 15:21:07 -0500
Chilton's auto manual for early 90's Chevy Blazer's and S-10's listed
several starters for the different engine configurations as having current
draw ratings between 40 and 90 amps. I am considering trying to use
starters for my tank's motors (modified of course) and have mentioned this
in other threads. I could still be way off on the current draw, and
starters for American engines are almost always beefier than imports and so
if I can find some starters from imports they may draw much less current.
The problem is that I've had a hard time finding ratings listed for starters
of different brands and makes so at this point it is a lot of guess work and
estimation. I was thinking I'd buy some cheap ones and hook them up and
test for their current draw and this would either prove or disprove my
theories. I also figured that if I could handle 120amps continuous and
found that my motors only draw 60amps then so what. I'd rather have the
extra handling capacity than to not have it and need it.
I've also been in contact recently with a guy who uses starter motors for
the odd sport of furniture racing. They put electric motors on recliners,
sofas, and shopping carts and race. His information however is making it
less than hopeful that I'll be able to pull this off.
From: tanks-admin-at-rctankcombat.com [mailto:tanks-admin-at-rctankcombat.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Tyng
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 2:55 PM
Subject: RE: Joe Sommer/Anvilus [TANKS]
> I don't have the most money in the world and I really can't
> afford to drop near $300 bucks buying one component. I'd
> really rather build it myself and in the end if I burn up
> some parts it costs me $300 to build then I'll still have
> come out ahead from the working knowledge of the components involved.
Your 90 to 100 continuous amp operating requirement is way beyond the
norm for the Hobby and in my opinion will needlessly jack up the price
for your project. I was wondering how you came up with that amperage