Re: Transmission Basics [TANKS]

["Nembo" <Nembo-at-bellsouth.net>]

Thanks Chris and Steve,

I'm pretty sure I will be able to fit every thing. But I won't cut till I'm 
sure.
I will hold off on the Gears for a while as you reccomend.

So with battiers would something like this work, 12V 26Ah.
http://www.ibsa.com/estore/view_product_detail.asp?part_number=SLA1146&mscssid=DG5D3T2WQ5P78GDW3RNRG4R49XNK1LN5&js=1
And with a battery like this would I just need one in the tank.

And would something like this work for a charger.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000274745/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000274745/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000274745

Morgan and I are down in Port St. Lucie, south of Vero.

Francisco"Stating planing" Arias





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Tyng" <STyng-at-acptrust.com>
To: <tanks-at-rctankcombat.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 9:03 AM
Subject: RE: Transmission Basics [TANKS]


> Francisco wrote:
>
>> First are these, the same as (or close to) EVs.
>> http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006020117595767&ite
>> m=10-1646&catname=electric
>
> We call those EVX's.  They are slightly less powerful than the EV
> Warriors.  They have been successfully used in paintball tanks.
>
>> I have changed directions and I'm now going for a Churchill
>> Mk VI
>
> Cool tank but narrow for it's size.  Getting everything into it could be
> challenging.
>
>> I am planing on
>> using Plastic Conveyor Tracks like the Hetzer so I will need
>> a belt somwhere in the setup for slippage right?
>
> Usually but I don't recall the Hetzer having any belts.  It may be
> relying on the slip clutches in the drill motors it is using.  You
> should consider the attachment chain tracks for a Churchill.  It most
> closely resembles the WWI style tracks the Churchill used.  It would
> look cool.
>
>> If I do a 9 to 1, I will need a 10 tooth and a 30 tooth plus
>> two identical cogs/wheels for the belts right?
>
> Not sure what your describing.  If you want the 9:1 both stages will
> have to have a 3:1 reduction.  There's no set rules on the reduction
> ratio.  The 9:1 works well when used with 2000rpm drive motors.  Before
> you buy any sprockets or pulleys you should layout your hull design in
> scale and determine the space available for the transmission sprockets,
> particularly the second stage because the space is the tightest at the
> drive shaft. You usually have a max sprocket size you can fit on the
> drive shaft so your limited on your reduction ratio on the second stage.
> You adjust your overall reduction ratio by playing with the ratio on the
> first stage.  For example, I was able to fit a maximum size of a 28
> tooth sprocket on the Cromwell drive wheel.  It is being driven by an 11
> tooth sprocket which gives a 2.55:1 reduction on the second stage.  If I
> wanted to set over all reduction to 9:1 I would design the first stage
> to a 3.53:1 ratio.
>
>> On the topic of belts what type of belts are used and
>> where can I get them?
>
> I use linked belts and get them from McMaster.com.
>
>> On too batteries, what do the veterns recommed 12 volt or 24
>> volt batteries?
>
> Depends on your motors and the design speed your going for.  The EVX's
> are optimized for 12volts.  For your first tank I would stick with
> 12volts.
>
>> How many? What type, sealed gel batteries, right?
>
> How many depends on voltage.  What your really interested in is amphr
> capacity.  Look for 24amphr or more for a 12volt system.
>
>> What other things do I need to look for when getting batteries? and
> what
>> type of charger?
>
> I recommend a smart charger.  Avoid cheap automotive battery chargers.
>
>> Last but not least what do I need to know about bearings?
>
> In order of preference (and cost): sealed ball bearings, bronze
> bushings, plastic bushings.
>
>> Thanks for the help everyone,
>>         Francisco "Starting over again" Arias, Florida
>
> Where in Florida are you?  I'm usually in the Orlando area a couple
> times a year.
>
>
>
> Steve Tyng
>