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From: |
"Marc en Wendy" <marcmethorst-at-zonnet.nl> |
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Subject: |
Re: D1D40 SSR's burning out?? [TANKS] |
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Date: |
Fri, 4 Nov 2005 19:13:48 +0100 |
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Reply-To: |
tanks-at-rctankcombat.com |
Grant wrote:
> Referring to your construction article(T#035) it appears you are using the
> same motor controller that I'am, namely, the Anvilus RC Relay SSR Motor
> Controller with Crydom SSR's fitted for proportional speed control.
Correct.
> When the SSR's get really hot and shut down, exactly what happens....do
> you loose proportional speed control(and still operate with
> forward/off/reverse) or does the motor controller shut right down?
From what I remember at one stage one of the tracks stopped functioning at
all, shortly after that the second track also blocked. It's not the
controller that stops (you could still hear the relays switching) but just
the SSR's were cut off.
> Have you installed any fuses, resistors or diodes to protect against
> current spikes, back EMF, etc.
I only installed a 30 amp fuse in each motor lead. I did not fuse the
controller because in my humble opinion it is not possible to blow it up
whilst driving, except in case of a direct shortcut somewhere on the board
which is very unlikely to occur.
> Interesting comment about the SSR's "coming back from the dead" after
> cooling down. I tested one SSR that I thought had failed and suprise, it
> worked!
Sure saves some money!
> I watched your Field Trial Video entitled "Ready to Battle". What an
> absolute hoot, especially the black and white portion with the dubbed in
> battle audio.
Thanks... it's not only the building and battling that is fun, I really
enjoy doing these things aswell.
> In your construction article for the Stug there is a pic of your
> proportional motor controller board. The throttle and steering servo
> leads are fastened to the board....at that attachment there is a small
> black cylinder....what is that small black cylinder?
It's not that spectacular: just a small piece of wire that pushes the servo
leads onto the tie rap seat. Just to make sure the leads can't be pulled out
of the board for some reason.
> At this point I don't want to miss anything....learning by experience is
> OK to a point....but, gauging by the great response I've had I think I'll
> use the assistance of my peers more!
I wouldn't have come this far without the help of all the people on the
mailing list!
Some extra info about the Anvilus controller: for a reason not known to man
(including Joe) you may have some trouble with channels 5 and 6. After I
completed the installation of all electronics, channel 5 and 6 do not
respond to the transmitter when the Anvilus controller is switched off (they
still don't, but that's OK). First I thought I fried the controller, but
Will helped me out and explained that it's a bug in the controller. Don't
get me wrong: I think it's a good set up and works perfect, only the
forementioned is a bit strange. Perhaps Joe has detected the bug and gotten
rid of it in ta new design, could be possible. Earlier posting at
http://www.rctankcombat.com/archive/2005-05/msg00006.html
Marc
Holland