Re: Tank warfare in CA [TANKS]

[Barry Irick <scrocks-at-sbcglobal.net>]

I've been a long time R/C Big Gun Warship Combat person, and some of us have entertained ideas of doign combat tanks.  Saw you guys on line a few years ago and have watched this grow.  Time has come to try this out. 

 

Like the rules.  Enough to make it fair for all and not too restrictive to keep the main purpose (FUN).  Seem that rules aren;t taken too literally and there is some leeway allowed for construction purposes (especially bogies/tracks etc.).  However, I do have MANY questions I'd like to get started with.  I'm sure many of these you've had before, but here goes.

 

I guess the rules are loose enough so that theres is alot of flexibility with regards to tracks.  It is allowable to have a different track/bogie style than the prototype (i.e.  dual track teeth/single bogie vs. single tooth track/double bogies).  If so, makes it easier for individual to construct based on what is available to the builder and easier to construct per builder's skills.

 

Durability:  How good are wooden wheels (like wooden toy wheels from craft stores).  The Pz. IV looks it had them for a while.  Relatively cheap and easily replaceable.  Also saw someone making tracks from nylon web straps?  Looked like maybe tie down straps or like the web style military belts.  Has anybody done this and does it work and last?  I figure eventually anythign will wear out, but how much use realistically?  For me, that webbing would be easy to get.  And the wood slats that seem to be popular are the same size as and thickness as common survey stakes/lathe.  I can get that stuff at any of my job sites.  Using single bogie/dual tooth style would also reduce number of wheels necesary in half - also a plus (even if original had opposite). 

 

Motors:  I keep with the KISS method.  KCM looks ok, take some work to find and mount to "sprocket" wheel (intend to use friction method track style).  How have the other motors (drill motors, etc.) fared for alternatives?  

 

Lower hull intend to use 1/2" plywood to support weight adn provide good platform for innards (coated with Solar-Ez).  I see alot of metal framing, is this because the wood wears easily (even with bushings/washers).  How necessary is the metal reinforcing?

 

Paintball markers in CA aren't regulated, there are plenty of shops and play areas.  But I don't know about for tank combat yet.  I LIKE the blowgun method as it takes up so much less space (apparantly).  Not familiar with parts and actions.  Once ball is in barrel, what keeps it from falling out before firing (sound silly ques.).  What about blow back into the magazine (any marker)?  In blow gun style, what is used for actuator, and what size tubing is commonly used (assume typical found in paintball shops).  Can probably make my own marker (using warship style with copper tubing soldered together- strong) with right fittings.

 

Lastly, during battles - are ATG allowed to change facing if not fully 360 rotation (love the PAK 40 shown on site)?

 

That seems more than enough for now.  Gonna try to build a beast, figure it may take a while.   Would like to find others in So. Cal. area also interested. 

 

Barry