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From: "John Barager" <gogetta20-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Custom Marker [TANKS]
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 17:20:33 -0300
Reply-To: tanks-at-rctankcombat.com

Well, I don't plan to use a compressor and home made air tank, I'm going 
tonuse commercial CO2 bottles. I'm sure they com in larger sizes then the 
commonly used ones here, and I don't mind getting one that's larger.
So, if I can get more gas behind the ball, then there should be no problem 
with the length of the barrell?
I don't mind having to reload a new CO2 cank with evry paintball reload (or 
every 2 reloads), I just want range and accuracy.

----Original Message Follows----
From: Steve Edwards &lt;sedwards-at-awger.net&gt;
Reply-To: tanks-at-rctankcombat.com
To: tanks-at-rctankcombat.com
Subject: Re: Custom Marker [TANKS]
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 11:50:21 -0400

adt22-at-drexel.edu wrote:

&gt;Could that be related to porting? or is all that stuff bs?
&gt;
&gt;

Not really related, but it's not all BS either. IIRC, my ProAm with an 
Armson bbl (rifled + muzzle brake) used CO2 at about the same rate as a 
shorter spiral-drilled bbl. Basically, the longer the bbl, and the more 
blow-by / venting, the more CO2 (or air) you'll use for each shot.

&gt;This maybe true for comercial markers, But with the homemade ones
&gt;you dump alot more air behind the ball where as the comercial ones
&gt;only use a tiny amount of air.


Air works the same in a homemade marker as it does in a commercial marker.  
:)

CO2 is more dense than air (44 gm/mole vs 30 gm/mole) and has drastically 
different thermal and expansion characteristics (in a full CO2 bottle, much 
of the CO2 is liquid).

Markers designed for CO2 expect higher input pressures (250-500psi), use 
tiny needle valves, and have a short impulse. Commercial markers designed 
for HPA (high pressure air) also use high input pressures.

Homemade markers designed for compressed air use lower input pressures 
(80-120psi), large-bore valves, and a longer impulse. Because of the lower 
pressures involved, it takes longer to pass the pressure through the valve 
and a &quot;larger charge&quot; is required.

This relationship is analogous to the differences between modern smokeless 
gun powders and &quot;old&quot; black powders. Modern powders burn much 
faster, generate higher pressures, and take up less volume for the same 
&quot;power&quot; as compared to black powder (compare the difference in 
muzzle energy between a .44 magnum and a  .44-50 -- same bullet, but modern 
powder pushes it faster than 50gr of old black).

Most of the tanks built to date use a cut-down commercial CO2 marker with a 
small (6-12oz) bottle. This can last all day if you're not shooting a lot, 
and I've never seen anyone fire so fast that they had any problems with 
freezing-up.

Most &quot;air cannons&quot; use PVC as a resevoir for the firing charge. 
There are multiple kinds of PVC, not all of which are pressure rated 
(non-pressure-rate PVC can explode violently under pressure). The pressure 
rating should be stamped on the side; if there's no pressure rating stamped 
on the side then it's not pressure rated, and you shouldn't use it.

The higher the pressure of your resevoir, the smaller it can be. &quot;How 
much&quot; higher and smaller is a matter of debate and in any event is 
limited by your primary pressure source (probably a 12V air compressor). My 
baseline is a resevoir with twice the volume of my barrel, pressurized to 
100psi by compressor (rated for 120psi).

Theoretically speaking, as long as the resevoir ratio is maintained, a 
35&quot; air cannon will have similar performance to a 25&quot; air cannon 
at the same pressure, but will just be less efficient.

    - Steve &quot;under pressure&quot; Edwards