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From: |
Steve Edwards <sedwards-at-awger.net> |
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Subject: |
Re: Custom Marker [TANKS] |
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Date: |
Thu, 07 Apr 2005 11:50:21 -0400 |
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Reply-To: |
tanks-at-rctankcombat.com |
adt22-at-drexel.edu wrote:
>Could that be related to porting? or is all that stuff bs?
>
>
Not really related, but it's not all BS either. IIRC, my ProAm with an
Armson bbl (rifled + muzzle brake) used CO2 at about the same rate as a
shorter spiral-drilled bbl. Basically, the longer the bbl, and the more
blow-by / venting, the more CO2 (or air) you'll use for each shot.
> This maybe true for comercial markers, But with the homemade ones you
> dump alot more air behind the ball where as the comercial ones only
> use a tiny amount of air.
Air works the same in a homemade marker as it does in a commercial
marker. :)
CO2 is more dense than air (44 gm/mole vs 30 gm/mole) and has
drastically different thermal and expansion characteristics (in a full
CO2 bottle, much of the CO2 is liquid).
Markers designed for CO2 expect higher input pressures (250-500psi), use
tiny needle valves, and have a short impulse. Commercial markers
designed for HPA (high pressure air) also use high input pressures.
Homemade markers designed for compressed air use lower input pressures
(80-120psi), large-bore valves, and a longer impulse. Because of the
lower pressures involved, it takes longer to pass the pressure through
the valve and a "larger charge" is required.
This relationship is analogous to the differences between modern
smokeless gun powders and "old" black powders. Modern powders burn much
faster, generate higher pressures, and take up less volume for the same
"power" as compared to black powder (compare the difference in muzzle
energy between a .44 magnum and a .44-50 -- same bullet, but modern
powder pushes it faster than 50gr of old black).
Most of the tanks built to date use a cut-down commercial CO2 marker
with a small (6-12oz) bottle. This can last all day if you're not
shooting a lot, and I've never seen anyone fire so fast that they had
any problems with freezing-up.
Most "air cannons" use PVC as a resevoir for the firing charge. There
are multiple kinds of PVC, not all of which are pressure rated
(non-pressure-rate PVC can explode violently under pressure). The
pressure rating should be stamped on the side; if there's no pressure
rating stamped on the side then it's not pressure rated, and you
shouldn't use it.
The higher the pressure of your resevoir, the smaller it can be. "How
much" higher and smaller is a matter of debate and in any event is
limited by your primary pressure source (probably a 12V air compressor).
My baseline is a resevoir with twice the volume of my barrel,
pressurized to 100psi by compressor (rated for 120psi).
Theoretically speaking, as long as the resevoir ratio is maintained, a
35" air cannon will have similar performance to a 25" air cannon at the
same pressure, but will just be less efficient.
- Steve "under pressure" Edwards