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From: |
adt22-at-drexel.edu |
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Subject: |
Re: Speed control layout [TANKS] |
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Date: |
Wed, 29 Dec 2004 00:30:53 -0500 |
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Reply-To: |
tanks-at-rctankcombat.com |
I just built mine this weekend and haven't tested it for too long because I've still
got 22 gauge wire in some places and didn't want to smoke them away. Its just 22
gauge until I pick up some 16 gauge and get a good layout. I'll try and post some
pictures of it soon - its probably has little value for anyone that wants to build
one but it should give some people a laugh given that its my first electronics
endeavor.
I was thinking you'd be able to get away with pcb for the inner circuitry (inner
based on the diagram) because it should be low current - I'm running mine off a 9
volt battery. I wouldn't expect to get away with pcb for the COM, NO or other
"heavy" lines.
Also, my motors were running with no load, I had to take them out to cut off the
grounding tab and I haven't put them back in. On that note, I have two questions:
Is there just one grounding tab which you can see obviously contacting the case once
the EV is opened, or are there any more that I've missed?
What exactly is the situation that will cause a problem - do the motors have to be
connected via mounting somehow?
Thanks,
Amir
----- Original Message -----
From: chris barthelson <barthelson88-at-hotmail.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 8:51 pm
Subject: Speed control layout [TANKS]
> Hi all,
> I'm currently building a Tri-pact speed control. The original plan
> was to
> have it all mounted on a pcb. I made the pcb and wired everything
> up, then
> tested it. It worked but not for long. The copper tracks on the
> pcb were all
> melting and it was also smoking. So what outher ways can you make
> a ti-pact
> speed control without using any pcb's???
> Thanks,
> Chris. b
>
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