Heh, yea, I took the time to read the battle reports and tank lists before I came up with the idea. And I'm pretty confident the track won't throw because the chain I plan to use isn't designd to derail. I'm gonna hopefully be using stuf my father has left over from his old motorcycle transmissions. Here's a picture. I wanna use two per track.
----Original Message Follows---- From: "steve gusikoski" <stemc03-at-telus.net> Reply-To: tanks-at-rctankcombat.com To: <tanks-at-rctankcombat.com> Subject: RE: Double the engines? Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 10:50:20 -0600 I concur, My original track was a single #35 roller chain system and I had a lot of trouble with thrown track, I am in the process of building new track out of Double wide #40, I am also installing new wheels and track guides because, as Tyng says, the track guiding system at the wheels is very very important when turning. Steve "T014" Gusikoski RE: Paul wrote: > Everyone using tracks that are made from a chain that is not > Roller Chain have given up sprocket drive in favour of > friction drive. All normal chain drives expect the sprockets > and the chain to remain in alignment at all times , on a tank > this does not happen when you are trying to turn and so the > chain rides up the sprocket and comes off , especially bike > chain where the chain and sprockets are designed to do that > so the gears can be changed. About bike chain jumping of the sprockets. I think it may have more to do with the sprocket than the chain. If you look at the typical bike sprocket you'll see one tooth that has a ramp cut into it to allow the chain to come on and off easily. I always wondered if a standard 40 series sprocket (same pitch as bike chain but thicker) were turned down to an appropriate thickness, if that would work well for a sprocket drive track. No matter how a track is driven. If it doesn't have a good system to keep the track in alignment at the road wheels. It will most likely fail in a skid turn. Steve Tyng