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From: |
"erik kump" <ebkump-at-hotmail.com> |
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Subject: |
RE: barrel porting,the long barrels.... |
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Date: |
Mon, 28 Jun 2004 10:58:10 -0400 |
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Reply-To: |
tanks-at-rctankcombat.com |
>and has anyone used the backspinn barrels so far? they realy work!... the
>ball climbs up in the air! instead of dropping.
>greetings Siggy........
>
Hey, here's something I can comment on!
The only barrels that I know of that put backspin on the ball are the
FLatline barrels from Tippmann. I happen to have one on my A-5 (paintgun)
and I can attest that they indeed work. Using the backspin, they
substantially flatten the trajectory of the shot and add a good 50-70 feet
to the range. Some people gripe that at range, it suffers from accuracy
problems, but since we're talking about range that a standard barrell cant
give you, I think the point is moot. Also, many people are put off by its
price (100-150USD).
My intent is to use my A-5 in T023 because its Cyclone feeder will be more
robust and reliable that anything I could come up with. I had thought about
using the Flatline for the benefits I listed above, but decided against it
for the following reasons:
1) The Flatline is very finicky when it comes to paint. The barrel is
curved, and it's interior is 'textured' (read 'rough'). That is the
mechanism that imparts the backspin. It also means it is rough on paint.
When I play paintball, I have to buy high-quality, near-tournament grade
paint to the tune of 70USD per case. The paint must be fresh, round, no
dimples, and no brittle shells, or the rate of barrel breaks rises
dramatically.
2) If you do have a barrel break, you're SOL until you squeegie the barrel.
The paint goo ruins the texture effect of the barrel and turns it into an
expensive paint sprayer. Any ball you try to shoot through the mess that
doesn't break will be covered in goo and wing off in any direction but
straight ahead. And a simple push rod squeegie won't work. The barrel is
curved. When I have a break while playing, I have to pull off the hopper and
work a Pro-flex squeegie through the Cyclone feeder two or sometimes three
times to get all the goo. Then, to get all the residue, I have a large
absorbent 'squeegie' (looks like a big fuzzy pipe cleaner) that i use to dry
it completely. Now, to it's credit, as long as you are using high-quality
paint, barrel breaks are rare. I've only had a handful in the two years I've
owned mine.
3) The barrel is curved. Not too many tanks ever had one of those, eh? The
IS-4 had a very long gun, and it would look silly with a big curve at it's
base. I suppose I could put a larger shroud around it, but then the barrel
would be ridiculously thick.
Instead, I opted to go with a J&J ceramic. It's a high quality aftermarket
barrel with the handy feature of being self-cleaning. I haven't actually
used it yet, but all the reviews I read of it gave it high marks. If I ever
get around to finishing T023, then my next project was going to be a tank
destroyer. The Soviet SU 122. It has a short barrel with a large squarish
shroud that would be perfect for it. I had entertained the notion of
building one of those Stridsvagen Swedish MBT's, but thought duplicating the
aiming mechanism (raising the angle of the entire hull) might prove a bit
TOO challenging.
Well, this turned into more of a rant than a comment, didn't it? Sorry.
Anyway, I think the Flatline will have a place in my tank arsenal, just not
on my primary vehicle. With it's extended range, it would be good for
long-balling. Maybe a field piece, or gun emplacement. Hmmm...
Erik "Not enough hours in the day or dollars in the wallet" Kump
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