[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Someone once suggested using two receivers, one for the hull and one for the
turret, both on the same signal, but each using different signal outputs to
control their own functions. If you have a smaller battery powering
everything in the turret also then you shouldn't need any wires going
between the turret and the hull. It's in the archive somewhere ...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tanks-admin-at-rctankcombat.com
> [mailto:tanks-admin-at-rctankcombat.com] On Behalf Of SteveT44
> Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 6:28 AM
> To: tanks-at-rctankcombat.com
> Subject: RE: rotary electrical connector
>
> WJ wrote:
>
> > Wow, thats a nifty connector! What have the veteran tank-builders
> > here used so far to solve twisted wire?!
>
> I let my wire twist. I use a coiled cable from a keyboard,
>
> http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T005/88TurretAmbilical-large.jpg
>
> So far I've hadn't any problems over-twisting or tangling the wire.
> Tri-Pact lets their wires twist also.
>
> The rotary connectors (also known as slip-rings) detailed on
> the link provided by Ray are liquid metal (mercury) contact
> slip-rings. Liquid metal slip rings need to be mounted in an
> upright direction and can be prone to shock and vibration
> problems. You should check the manufacturers specs regarding
> shock resistance before buying one. Solid contact, or
> brushed slip-rings, have issues with electrical noise while
> rotating. It's my thought that this electrical noise would
> play havoc with servo control signals. If you find pricing
> on any type of industrial quality slip-ring, I think you'll
> be surprised at how expensive they are. A low cost brushed
> slip-ring would be one of those rotating connectors you plug
> into a phone handset to keep the cord from tangling. You can
> get those in up to four conductors.
>
> Steve Tyng
>
>
>