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Bondo is fine, just don't put it on too think, as it has a tendancy to
flake off when the wood absorbs moisture or after it has fully dried and
srunk. As long as it is applied in a very thin layer you will be fine.
On wooden projects I will often use that red finishing putty, which is
sold for filling very minor car body imperfections like deep scratches in
metal or bubble holes in bondo. It comes in a tube, and you just squirt on
a flat surface, mix with a putty knife and apply. Sanding is a breeze.
Remember to have lots of sandpaper, as eighter putty will clog it quickly if
you got too much on the surface.
Another method I used which is unusual is putting on layers of paint and
sanding every second one. It sealed the wood decks on a battleship I built
and made the wood grain dissappear. I ussed spray paint as it soaks in and
drys fast. I'll probably do this to may tank, once I get around to building
Speaking of plywood I have half a sheet left from my Scharnhorst
project, maybe I could start with that..... Hhhuuuummmm........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shawn & Jaime" <sjrice426-at-cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: Hiding wood grain
> I would use bondo less messy than epoxy, readily available, water proofs,
> sandable and accepts paint with ease.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Geoff Crimmins <gcrimmins-at-yahoo.com>
> To: <tanks-at-rctankcombat.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 11:08 AM
> Subject: Hiding wood grain
> > I have just started work on a 1/10 scale M1A1 tank.
> > I'm using 1/8" plywood for the turret and body. I will
> > use either aluminum or thicker plywood for the lower
> > hull. For those of you who have used plywood in your
> > tank construction, how did you fill in or cover the
> > wood grain to give a more realistic texture? I'm quite
> > sure a real tank doesn't doesn't have a wood-grain
> > texture. :)
> > --Geoff Crimmins
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